Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Krabi Day 3

Woke up with anticipation because we were looking forward to a buffet breakfast, but we were upset to know that due to insufficient guests (low season AGAIN!), we would be served breakfast sets instead. Darn.

Wholesome breakfast of omelette, meats, toast, fruits and coffee

At the pool

As it was still early, we rode to Noppharat Thara beach for a morning walk on the exposed mudflats (as it was low tide again). We were trying to catch some fiddler crabs at the knolls but Slug cut his sole against the protuding rocks there and started bleeding. We hurried back to our hotel and as I requested for some alcohol and cotton from the lobby, the bellboy joked to Slug good-naturedly, "Why, you not happy with the stone?", and to which we laughed.

The two knolls on an early morning

After cleaning his wound, the bleeding stopped and we proceeded to the lobby to wait for the minivan that would come at 8.30am to pick us up for our excursion. It turned out to be a pickup instead, which took us to a pier near Noppharat Thara beach. Together with two farang families and some Thai nationals, we were ushered up a long-tail boat which would take us to the first island, Tup Island.

On the pick-up

On the long-tail boat

Approaching 4 Islands

Approaching Tup Island

After 30 minutes, we arrived at Tup Island and we were given 40 minutes to laze around on its beach. As the tide was low, a sandbar that connected two islets there was somehow exposed, making it possible to walk to and from these islets. As I was walking along the sandbar and wading through the water, I had fun gazing at the shoals of huge alligator fishes and other fishes swimming around. Poor Slug did not want to enter the water because of the cut on his sole, so he sat all by himself on a boulder.

The beach on Tup Island

People wading across to the other islet

As I was exploring the fishes, I caught sight of a Singaporean father who disgusted me with his fake Caucasian accent. He was guiding his son, who seemed to be about 4-years-old, in snorkelling. While helping his son stay afloat and paddle, he was rattling away, "Joshua, paddle your feet ... This is how you swim ... You breathe through this tube ... This is called snorkelling ... Oh, do you see that, Joshua ... that is a big yellow fish ... Do you know where the fishes live? ... At these rocks ... Oh, Joshua, don't drink the waaahhdder ... the waaahdder is sorrteeee ... sorrrteee, sorrrteee ...." Give that guy a break, he is only 4-years-old! And the way he spoke (with that fake accent) seriously induced goosebumps all over my scalp.

After that, we left Tup Island for Khai (Thai for 'chicken') Island. Why Chicken Island? Because it is shaped like a chicken. Slug felt that it should be named Turkey Island instead.

Leaving Tup Island

Khai Island

Our boat anchored itself a few metres away from the island, allowing us to plunge into the waters and snorkel. Some went ahead and some stayed on board to feed the fishes. The waters were so clear that I could see sea urchins at the bottom of the sea.

Stopping at this cove

Feeding the fishes

Our guide dived into the water and started to catch the fishes with his bare hands. How he did it: he spit into the water, and the fishes, mistaking his white spit to be bread, swam towards to nibble it and his fingers, and he would instinctively clamp his fingers over the unfortunate fish.

Slug was impressed with such a skill of his, but I was starting to get worried because the guide just threw his catch onto the boat and left them there under the sun. I tried to house those fishes in a bread plastic bag filled with water but it started leaking. In the end, I was so frustrated that I released them all back into the sea. Luckily the guide did not mention anything about the fishes when he came on board.

We were then brought to Poda Island for lunch. We could not believe our eyes when we were handed packed lunch, because we were expecting lunch at restaurants!

Just rice with pork and omelette

So we sat at a nearby restaurant to enjoy our miserable lunch, and then we walked around the beach. We watched in amusement as a group of monkeys appeared from nowhere and started ransacking the bags of two sunbathers, who shrieked at them. Slug and I ran forward to take a closer look at them.

That was a close look, wasn't it? Soon, a few of us started crowding around this pack of monkeys, and a Thai woman even fed them some mee siam. As Slug was staring at it, it suddenly lunged towards Slug and wanted to snatch the bottle of mineral water he was holding. Slug was so stunned that he stood rooted to the ground until a farang came over and scared them away.

The monkeys scampered away ...

A limestone outcrop off Poda Island

Then we were taken to the last 'island': Railey beach. Yah, it is actually a beach separated from Ao Nang beach by a hill, so it cannot really be considered an island, but god-knows-why it is part of this itinerary.

On the way to Railey beach

This small secluded stretch of beach (which can only be reached by long-tail boats and not by land transport) was quite crowded with many sunbathers, and we were not impressed with the cleanliness of this beach. We were then taken to the Phra Nang Cave (the Cave of the Holy Princess) to pay a visit to the shrine.

On Railey beach

Phra Nang Cave

The shrine which houses the spirit of the Holy Princess

We explored the beach by walking towards the back, on a path that would take us to the Viewpoint. We passed by the stalactites and stalagmites at the base of the huge limestone hill, and finally came to the path up the hill that would lead to the Viewpoint.

Hanging stalactites formed by water eroding the limestone

Erm, yes, that is the path up to the Viewpoint. Slug and I stared at it in disbelief. There was a ragged rope that you can hold on to while scaling the steep slope, but the steepness was too forbidding. A farang couple came down the slope (with ease) and they told us that we should try to get to the top, because there were two paths that we could take. One would lead to the Viewpoint that offers a scenic view of Railey beach, while the other path would lead to a cavern with a beautiful lagoon. I was tempted and started to climb up the slope, but Slug the weakling complained about his foot and sat there watching me. Within ten steps, fear started to grip me, dirt started to go under my fingernails and I started to whine. My ascent promptly stopped there.

So we walked back to the beach to board our boat back to Ao Nang. As the boat bounced up and down the waves, everyone on board was splashed and drenched by the waves. It was cooling and irritating at the same time.

Shielding ourselves from the waves

We were brought back to our hotel, where we washed up and took a short comfortable nap.

On the balcony

When evening came, we woke up and rode to Noppharat Thara beach. It was low tide again and we made more discoveries. The best discovery I made: my flip-flops were stolen. I was extremely upset because those were my favourite Nokia rubber flip-flops that I bought from the Student Advisory Centre!

Another crab scurrying away

Slug collected a handful of clams

A baby horseshoe crab

After that, we rode to an open-air compound of tze char restaurants near our hotel for dinner. We saw a table of three disgusting Singaporeans giving us the head-to-toe stares and we were instantly pissed.

The tze char restaurant that we patronized

We felt that it should be a credible dining venue as we saw scores of farangs there. We ordered tempura prawns and squid, fried chicken and tofu and minced pork soup, and topped off the dinner with refreshing coconut juice.

Dinner

As we were eating away, suddenly someone tapped me on my shoulder and grinned, "Hey, remember me?". I could only stare at her, nonplussed, not knowing what to say. "I am the guide this morning, to 4 Islands," she continued, and Slug and I breathed a relieved "Ooooh". We were awestruck by the transformation our guide underwent: during the day she was hidden behind a pair of shades and her hair tucked into a cap; now she let her hair down and looked more feminine. No wonder we could not recognise her. We took a picture together, and Slug and I secretly agreed between ourselves that she looks like Michael Jackson (and that's not a compliment).

The guide, Eve, and I

After dinner, we walked around the shops that fronted Ao Nang beach and browsed through the pirated DVDs (they even had Hostel 2!) and beach apparel. Slug and I bought slippers quite cheaply.

At the shops at Ao Nang beach

Harassing a stray cat

After walking around and snacking on tidbits and hotdogs from 7-Eleven, we returned to our room. To our horror, we realised a Singaporean couple had moved into the room next to ours (we could hear their distinguishable voices and accents from next door), and their TV was on all the way past midnight. Assholes.

Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Krabi Day 2

Woke up super early at 6am to pack our luggage, have breakfast and then board the minivan at 7.30am. The minivan was packed, so Slug and I had the privilege of sitting at the front and enjoying the scenery. Off we were on a 3-hour ride to Krabi.

Up steep inclines ...

Zigzagging our way through the mountains


Hills shrouded by clouds

Small classic Thai houses

We passed by rolling hills and large rubber and oil palm plantations, and we saw old and simple-looking schools, roadside stalls, large Chinese tombstones, wild cows grazing by the roadside and even a strolling elephant. In general, a slice of Thai rural life. When we started seeing tall and massive karst (limestone) towers, we knew we were nearing Krabi.

Rust-hued limestone cliffs topped with lush tropical greenery

Karst landscape characteristic of Krabi

At about 10am, the driver let us down for a 20-minute toilet break at a small roadside coffeehouse. Greedy Slug wolfed down a bowl of noodles while I only had appetite for Coke. The journey was making us weary and we were still 60+km away from Krabi town.

We resumed our journey after the break, and we finally reached Krabi town about half an hour later. The minivan stopped to let us off at a tour agency, where we were separated from the other passengers in our van as they boarded another minivan bound for Penang and Satun. So poor Slug and I lazed around at that agency waiting for our minivan bound for Ao Nang beach to come. We noticed that the agency arranges coaches and vans not only from Krabi to other parts of Thailand, but also to Malaysia and Singapore. One-way to Singapore costs only SGD$50 (cheap!), but it is a butt-heating 24-hour journey. Definitely not for one with piles.

We finally got on the van to Ao Nang, and it dropped us off at the Buri Tara Resort. We were kind of disappointed to see that it was a pretty small hotel and was not anywhere near the beach, but when we stepped in, we were whammed by the posh and beautifully-furnished lobby, as well as the warm hospitality of the receptionists, who served us welcome drinks.

Buri Tara Resort

The bellboy brought us to our room on the top floor, and it was a pleasant surprise because our room had been made cool for us (we were sweating like mad) and it had a marble floor (unlike the typical carpeted or tiled floors in other hotels). And I must say, our room looked decent and comfortable with its wooden furnishings and neutral earth tones.

View of the hotel compound

View of the sea (erm, sort of)

We washed up and decided to rent their in-house scooters as this hotel was at quite a distance away from the beach and the centre of activity. We still shuddered at the recollection of our biking mishap in Kanchanaburi, but from what I could see, a bike or car seemed quite essential to get around.

We rode to Ao Nang beach for a simple lunch at Jinda's Guesthouse. It was mid-afternoon and the sun was blazing hot, unlike the gloomy weather over at Phuket. Slug was shaky with the bike initially, but he soon got the hang of it (auto and no clutch!). Luckily, traffic was not heavy. Best thing is, you can just park anywhere along the side of the road and parking is free! You are not required to wear a helmet too!

Ao Nang beach

Me and Slug at Ao Nang beach

Slug in front of a KamaSutra-ese painting

Check out the farang reading newspapers diligently

Fried squid with garlic and pepper with rice

After lunch, we stopped by a small minimart (there isn't any shopping mall in Ao Nang!) to get some necessities, and then to McDee's for some familiar food.

A road at Ao Nang beach

Trying out McDee's jelly sundae

The ever-courteous Ronald in Thailand

We walked around the beachfront shops as well as Ao Nang beach. Ao Nang seemed a quieter and less touristy place as compared to Phuket. Or maybe it was due to the low season. There were still farangs around sunbathing on the beach and walking around aimlessly (and yucks, do I see Singaporeans too?). On one hand, you may say that Krabi is truly a serene and hidden location for a serious escapade from city life, the commercial world and even pesky beach chair vendors (there aren't any beach chairs provided at Ao Nang, you have to bring your own mat), but on the other hand, you can say that it is quiet to the extent of boring. No shimmying trannies, no late-night partying or shopping, no hardcore nighttime entertainment found in Phuket. Slug and I could not decide whether to like this place for being peaceful or to hate it for being drab.

At Ao Nang beach

As evening came, we rode from Ao Nang beach to Noppharat Thara beach, which was just 5 minutes away. These two beaches are separated by a forested hill, but the latter was nearer to our hotel. The beach was experiencing low tide, exposing large shallow areas of mudflats.

Noppharat Thara beach

We took a leisurely stroll along the mudflats, keeping an eye on the miniscule sea creatures that prowl the puddles of seawater collected on the mudflats. We saw beautiful flawless seashells, sea snails, clams, tiny mudskippers and gazillions of hermit crabs no bigger than the size of a fingernail. But our favourite: crabs. On sensing our looming presence, the crabs (of species we have never ever seen before), which were feeding off the nutrient-rich mud, would scuttle away or bury themselves into the soft sand. But I would happily dig them out from their hiding places. They are so easy to catch.

Camouflage is no use to a keen human eye

The mudflats pockmarked by the crabs' constant burrowing

The tide was so low that it revealed a sandy path to two little knolls further away, and we walked towards them. During high tide, it was impossible to reach them by foot. There, we discovered more crab species and an apprehensive heron.

The two knolls

Reaching one of the knolls

As dusk fell, we witnessed one glorious sunset (without the sun, because it set behind the trees). For a moment, the mudflats glowed with a golden brilliance and we were speechless at the beautiful sight.

The beach got darker and more desolate with every minute, and we left reluctantly. We returned to our room to wash up, and later booked two excursions at the lobby. The prices offered by our hotel were even lower than those offered by the roadside tour agencies (and they were not even open to negotiation!), because according to the kind receptionist, the hotel had fought for lower prices solely for its guests. Sweet!

In the blissful comfort of our room

We rode out to Ao Nang beach for dinner, and on the way, we stopped by a gasoline shop to top up on petrol. A full tank costs only SGD$2.20!

We had dinner at a roadside stall which sold wonton mee. I cannot say the standard of the wonton mee is comparable to that of Singapore, but well, it was cheap.

After dinner, we cruised along the relatively empty road that lines Noppharat Thara beach, taking in the breeze and the obsidian sea. We then retreated to our room for an early night.

We are going on the 4 Islands tour tomorrow!