Hong Kong & Macau 2008 Day 6

Was super looking forward to today, because the hike we were going to embark on was a challenging and worthwhile one! We took the MTR to Shau Kei Wan, where we had lunch at a cheap dimsum-cum-roast meats shop. Slug was all praises for the value-for-money food there and the quail egg siew mai, and we both loved the spring onion and garlic oil garnishing our roast duck rice.

Shau Kei Wan MTR station

The great restaurant where we had lunch

Roast meats rice with the tasty garlic and spring onion condiment

Slug's favourite quail egg siew mai (unique!)

After lunch, we walked around Shau Kei Wan town centre and found it to be a pleasant neighbourhood town.

Main road of Shau Kei Wan

Dried geckos and the skinned face of an antler on display at a TCM shop

Market street at Shau Kei Wan

We proceeded to the bus interchange there and took Bus #9 to To Tei Wan along Shek O Road, which was the staring point of the 8.5km trail from Shek O Road to Tai Long Wan (aka Big Wave Bay). The bus stops along the remote Shek O Road all looked the same, and it did not help that no passengers got off along this road. Luckily, with the assistance of the helpful bus driver, we alighted at the correct stop. When we alighted, we saw a group of local hikers and were assured that we were in the correct place.

Quiet and deserted Shek O Road

Group of hikers on the opposite side of the road

At the beginning of the trail

This trail from Shek O Road to Big Wave Bay is Stage 8 of the Hong Kong Trail

Before we set off, we took a good look at the map and hiking pointers (Slug was quick to point out and whine that this hike was more suitable for experienced hikers) and used the public toilets provided at the starting point. Then we came to a long long long flight of stony steps, and as we went higher up the hill, we had amazing views of the sea off Shek O. We also came across a large group of serious local hikers (as could be seen from the metal and wooden hiking sticks they were holding) and a few pairs of local and angmoh hikers. Suddenly felt silly to be wearing slippers for the hike, but heck, Slug and I were just amateur hikers!

Our starting point

Starting off with shallow steps

Blurry view of Stanley across the sea

Nearing Dragon's Back

We could see Dragon's Back from where we were

Taken by Slug the nature photographer

Slug still lagging behind!

Slug started to whine and complain about the distance and strenuous climb that I put him through, which greatly annoyed me. We came across a friendly angmoh couple who said hi to us, and we struck up a conversation with them. They gushed about how lovely the view was at Shek O Peak, and I could not help but realise the guy kept staring at my slippers. We continued on our way after that, and soon reached a pavillion where we rested for a while.

Many more stone steps

The pavillion that marked the beginning of Dragon's Back

After the rest, we walked for a short distance and came to Shek O Peak, where we got a breathtaking view of Shek O below and the sea beyond. The wind at the top was very strong and chilly! Slug loved the sensation of standing on the rocks and opening his arms wide (ala Jack and Rose in Titanic), enjoying the wind and a wider view of Shek O due to his elevated position.

At Shek O Peak

Shek O town and beach

From Shek O Peak, we began our walk along Dragon's Back, so named because it is a path along a ridge, and the up and down terrain resembles the undulating spine of a dragon. As we walked along the sandy path, we felt really exposed and our precarious position on the peak seemed like an accident waiting to happen (either being struck by lightning or rolling down the grassy slopes).

Beginning the Dragon's Back

Walking on Dragon's Back

We walked on and on the sinuous and seemingly never-ending path, taking in the sights and the wind. We came across a few benches and hikers (the latter rarer) along the way. I hated it whenever we had to climb up a mini peak along the ridge, because there were no properly constructed stairs! The 'stairs' were made up of a haphazard arrangement of rocks surrounded by fine sand, and thus made it really slippery. No thanks to my increasingly worn out slippers, I slipped a few times but luckily they did not result in a fall. At one point of time, a topless and muscular hunk jogged past me, and we applauded (to ourselves) his bravery - for baring his chest in this chill, and for dashing down those slippery dangerous steps!

Golf course beside Shek O

On all fours trying to climb up the mini peak

Dragon's Back

Our destination - Big Wave Bay

Shek O Peak - 284 metres above sea level

Sometimes there were proper stairs (but still sandy and slippery)

After experiencing such great views, Slug wasn't complaining anymore!

Steps on the left for hikers, and slippery slope on the right for mountain bikers (who would be in the right mind to cycle on a ridge!)

On all fours again trying to negotiate the treacherous slopes

Dragon's Back ended finally, leading us into a more shady path into the greenery. After walking for a while more, the sandy path evolved into a tarred road, and we reached a junction whereby we had to choose between Tai Tam or Big Wave Bay. The directions were a bit vague, but we chose to go to Big Wave Bay. We thought the junction signalled the impending end point of our exhausting hike, but we were so wrong! Big Wave Bay was another 1.5km away!

Path leading into a forest

End of Dragon's Back, and choosing between walk to Tai Tam or Big Wave Bay

Whooping in delight thinking that we had completed the trail

Another 45 minutes to reach Big Wave Bay? Our legs were breaking!

We rested for a while at the junction to catch our breath, sip some lukewarm lemon tea, relieve ourselves and inhale the crisp forest air. Ahhhh. Then I was shocked when I inspected my feet - soles of my slippers were thinning, and slippers and jeans stained with sand! What a sorry state my new slippers were in now! At least, my pretty painted nails remained intact, contrary to what Peiying predicted about rocks chipping the polish off my nails.

Resting at the junction

Looked like I dipped my feet in concrete

It was nearing 5pm, and we quickened our pace so that we would not be stuck in the forest when the sun set. From the junction, it was again another seemingly never-ending path through the trees and passing the streams. Along the way, we met some more hikers, including one with a lovely Husky that left drool on my skirt. Ick.

Walking on and on

Descending into the darkness

After descending a long flight of steps, we knew we were nearing Big Wave Bay. To conclude the hike in advance, let me say that it could have been completed within 3 hours, but we took 4.5 hours, and that was including toilet breaks, rests on the benches, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the scenery, and some horsing around. No wild animals were encountered, the only wild animals I saw were the hovering Black Kites in the sky and a half-dead moth. I was hoping to get close to snakes and hares, but I guess the ridge top is too dry for them to thrive.

We finally reached ground level, and came to a village of two-storey houses. Some were simple and unkempt, like those seen in Lei Yue Mun Village, while some were like bungalows, with Harley Davidsons and gardens to boot. We made our way to Big Wave Bay.

Exploring this quiet village

A cute cartoon outside a refreshment kiosk

Big Wave Bay was totally empty, except for us and four surfers trying to catch the waves. True to its name, the waves were tall (of course, not to the extent of tsunamis) and forceful, sending foamy mist into the air when they crashed into the rocks. The icy sand was so fine that it would give way even when we were treading lightly on it, thus making it a bit difficult to walk. The clouds grew thick and heavy, casting a grey gloom over what should be a beautiful beach.

Big Wave Bay

Watching the surfers trying to ride on the waves

Only a few successful cases

After we had enough of the beach, we walked over to a big carpark nearby, intending to take the same bus back to Shau Kei Wan. However, we waited for nearly 30 minutes, but the bus was nowhere to be seen. A minibus that also went to Shau Kei Wan suddenly came along, and we hopped on it. Within 20 minutes, we were back at Shau Kei Wan. Decided to have dinner at a unostentatious cha can ting where we did not expect to serve spectacular cuisine, but indeed, our expectations were exceeded when we were served the pork cutlet in Hawaiian sauce with rice, fried fish fillet and vegetable soup. Very homely and delicious. And I just love watercress drink with honey.

While waiting for the bus

Modest-looking cha can ting

A memorable last dinner in Hong Kong

With that, we took the tram back to Causeway Bay, enjoying the night scenes along the way. However, the ride took 20 minutes, whereas the MTR could have gotten us back within 10 minutes. Spent the night doing some last-minute shopping in Causeway Bay, especially SOGO (strawberry daifuku back in stock, yoohoo!) and HMV, before returning to our apartment with dread. Leaving for Macau the next day, and there were tons to pack (the prohibited items were a challenge)!