Thursday, June 07, 2007

Krabi Day 4

Woke up for breakfast at the hotel's restaurant, and this time I tried their chicken porridge, which was good. Simple (with only minced chicken) but tasty.

After breakfast, we proceeded to the lobby to await the minivan that would take us for the Jungle tour. When the minivan came at 8.30am, the driver gave instructions to the bellboy to hand us two beach towels. Slug and I were like, 'Wow, this must be a really wet excursion!', and we suddenly felt like dopes to bring only hand towels.

When we got on the minivan, there was a young farang couple on board. Then it went on to pick up a Singaporean family and then two farang women with a boy (about 4-years-old?). The guide went on to introduce himself as Chim (to which Slug and I started giggling) and informed us that it would be an hour's ride to our first destination: the Hot Spring.

Reached the entrance of the hot spring

As the hot spring was seated deep within the rainforest, we had to trek 1.4km on man-made wooden stilts to reach it. We (and Chim) were amused by the cute farang boy who insisted on leading the group by walking ahead of us.

Beginning of the trek

A signboard telling us the hot spring water is about 40 - 42 deg C

As we ventured deeper into the forest, we passed small streams, clear pools and lots of rotting leaves. Finally Chim led us to a dark spot and we started to hear noises coming from behind the trees. There was the 'hot spring', which was actually a small waterfall flowing down smoothly-polished boulders. The special thing was that there were alcoves formed by the boulders and tree roots which allowed us to anchor ourselves there and submerge in the mini waterfall.

So I quickly scrambled into one of the alcoves, chose a private spot and let the hot cascading waters run down my back. Slug was apprehensive about the water and he took a long time to get down because he was whining about the water being too hot.

The mini waterfall

Relaxing in the hot water

According to Chim, as the water that fed the waterfall came from a natural source, it contained minerals beneficial to our bodies. So I lapped them all up while Slug took an even longer time to adapt to the temperature of the water and join me in this natural jacuzzi.

After 40 minutes, the guide signalled for us to leave the hot spring, and we dried ourselves with the huge orange beach towels we were given earlier. Time to head to the Emerald Pool.

Drying out at a pavillion

We hopped onto our minivan, and it was a 30-minute ride to the Emerald Pool. At the entrance of the Emerald Pool, there was a rubber plantation and we were brought aside for a briefing on how to tap rubber (not again). Chim began his demonstration by cutting the bark of the rubber tree, and then showed us to a shed where two workers were kneading rubber (which looked like pizza dough) with their feet.

At the rubber plantation

Chim cutting the rubber tree

Rolling the rubber dough

During the demonstration, Slug and I were freaked out by the Singaporean Dad, who was fervently regurgitating Chim's teachings to his two kids. He was saying, "Look here, this is how they tap the rubber tree. They can only cut it in the morning and they do not tap when it is raining (Slug: Because rainy mornings are so comfortable for sleeping in). You see this white liquid, do you know what this is? Dah ... Dah ... Dah ..." Gee, he sounded like Joshua's father! Are all Singaporean Dads like that? Slug and I remembered our Dads weren't that eager to impart their knowledge about life's goings-on to us when we were kids. This was getting creepily mushy.

Beautiful rapids near the entrance

The farang boy wandered onto the bridge and was unknowingly captured in this shot!

Again, more trekking into the rainforest and over flowing rapids and mossy pools.

We finally arrived at the Emerald Pool and Slug and I were awestruck. It isn't called the Emerald Pool for nothing.

We slid into this shallow pool (about 1.5m) for a delightfully cool swim. We even saw tiger barbs and other fishes swimming around. We checked the water from the river that fed into this pool, but it was nowhere near emerald. So we still wonder today what gave that pool that radiant emerald colour.

Suddenly, we saw a large group of Singaporeans jumping into the pool. The crass aunties were enthusiastically discussing about "Tai Kok Liu Lian" while an uncle was teaching his kids how to swim. The kids even wore goggles and brought styrofoam swimming boards. Is this a f**ing swimming pool?!

We underestimated the banks of this pool, which were super slippery because the rocks were coated with some kind of moss. As I was trying to crawl out of the pool onto the banks, I slipped and fell, and cut my palm against the rock. Slug lamented that we always had to sustain injuries of some sort whenever we go abroad.

Back at the van, Chim handed me the first aid box when he saw the bleeding cut on my palm. We were then taken to a homely coffeeshop for lunch. Lunch was delicious (as compared to the measly packed lunch we had the day before), which consisted of green curry, chicken with cashew nuts, mixed vegetables and omelette with onions.

After lunch, we were taken to the Wat Tham Seua (Tiger Cave Temple). Along the way, we passed by a pineapple farm and Chim let us down to have a look. According to him, a pineapple plant produces only ONE pineapple a year! Doesn't that make pineapples precious? And as usual, Singaporean Dad was giving his kids a live commentary about pineapples and grilling Chim for more information about pineapples.

Then it was on to the watermelon farm. Chim plucked some watermelons (not fully grown yet) for us. I was perplexed when Slug received the watermelon from him, because ... how are we gonna bring this back?

We reached the Tiger Cave Temple a while later. It is a big temple at the base of a karst tower, which not only houses many Gods, but also is home to the monks who meditate there. The founder of this temple had seen a tiger decades ago at this very location, and so, built this temple to commemorate his sighting and named it thus.

A huge Guanyin shrine

Chim warned us about the many mischievious monkeys that inhabited the temple premises, which were known to steal tourists' cameras. We stayed away from them with caution.

But don't they look loving?

Chim told us that there were two flights of stairs in the temple compound. One had 1,300+ steep steps, which led to the meditation temple at the top of the karst tower, and which offered a wide view of the Krabi landscape. I was hoping to scale that flight, but Chim led us to the shorter flight of stairs (130+ steps) instead due to time constraints. We would be taken to see the 1,000-year-old tree as well as the monks' living quarters.

After scaling some steep steps, we descended into the forest hidden behind the karst tower. As we trekked through the forest, Chim impressed us with his sharp eyesight by pointing out a pair of mating millipedes, spiders, iguanas and even a lazy tortoise under the tree. He even plucked some dubious-looking berries off a tree and nudged us into trying them. We tried them hesitantly and our tongues were immediately zapped by a strong bolt of grapesy sourness!

The lush rainforest behind the karst tower

We soon came to the 1,000-year-old and we were awed by its size. Its buttress roots were already larger than us!

We also came across the derelict remains of an equally jumbo tree, which according to Chim, had been struck down by lightning. Slug and I got frustrated when our cameras started to run out of power, but we tried our best to take as many shots as the remaining battery power permitted.

After a long walk through the dense humidity and with the company of the insufferable mosquitoes, we arrived at an underground cave. Chim signalled for us to descend into the cave through a small opening on the ground and everyone looked uneasy. I was raring to squeeze through it, and I realised it was not as horrific as it seemed. At least the cave had some lighting.

The dimly-lit cave

When everyone was inside the cave, we were led to a small shrine. Slug and I explored the cave interior and the rock surfaces severely eroded by dripping water. There were stalactities and stalagmites and Chim could even play some musical notes out of them (like a xylophone)!

We were then led to witness for ourselves the spartan living conditions of the monks meditating there. Yes, that small hut, slightly bigger than a toilet cubicle, was a place for monks to sleep. And every morning, they had to climb 1,300+ steps up to the meditation temple (and another 1,300+ steps on the way down)!

Next, it was on to the Buddha's shrine where Slug and I made some sincere prayers.

Buddha

A real skeleton (of some important person)

Finally, we were taken to the Tiger Cave Temple where we saw figurines of more Gods and tigers, as well as a realistic wax figurine of the founder of this temple. We also made donations for the upcoming Bell Tower, because our names would be inscribed onto the large bell. When I asked the nun, she said the bell would be ready in 30 years. That seemed too long a time to wait, doesn't it? But Chim said "If got more money, faster ready". Ahh.

Our tour ended at 5+pm and we were taken back to our hotels. We washed up and visited Noppharat Thara beach for some sunset-viewing again.

We then had a simple dinner of fried chicken with sticky rice, and egg pancakes (which were none other than roti pratas). Dessert was ice-cream and brownies at an Italian ice-cream shop at Ao Nang beach. They had unique flavours like (Ferrero) Rocher and Nutella.

Drool-worthy selection of ice-cream and confectionery

We could not believe that we bumped into the two farang women (with the adorable boy) from our tour group earlier in the day. They waved at us while the boy was enjoying his ice-cream, oblivious to us. A few minutes later, we bumped into the mushy Singaporean Dad and his family, who asked us for any recommended places for dinner. We even bumped into our next-door neighbours, the irritating Singaporean couple who had their TV on till way past midnight. They gave us the I-know-you-are-my-neighbours look, and we hated it.

Slug and I stopped at a bar for a beer and some snooker and board games. And we bumped into another farang from our previous day's tour group. How small could Krabi get?

It was getting hot at that poorly-ventilated bar and Slug wanted to go for a ride, so we cruised down the long, straight and empty road along Noppharat Thara beach and it felt good. The road was dimly-lit and quiet, and we were tempted to speed. Okay, we tried to, but we felt like the bike was going to fall apart when we accelerated to 60kmph. Lousy bikes. We parked somewhere and hopped onto the beach to erm, play with sand.

When we decided to return to our hotel, we passed by a happening pub along the road and we alighted to take a look. Four Thai hunks were performing some fire-swinging stunts and we parked ourselves there for more beer and hunk-oogling. This pub was pretty crowded as compared to the quieter ones at Ao Nang, and the main guests there were farangs.

Suddenly, we saw a farang couple sitting at a table next to ours and we recognised them to be the couple from our tour group this morning. Seems like within a night we have already bumped into everyone from that group. They called out to us and we joined them at their table and started chatting. They are from NZ. The girl is the same age as me, but she is already a bar manager! The guy, five years older, said he is a builder, to which Slug and I felt somewhat peculiar because he looked too good and fair to be a builder. We are guilty for having stereotypical notions about builders being Banglas, always.

The DJ started to play clubbing-worthy songs like The Sweet Escape, Hey Ya and Sexy Back, and the farangs started grooving on the dancefloor (which was actually a big squarish sandbox). I was happily swirling my heavy head to the music when one Indian girl pulled me to the dancefloor. We chatted and she, from Canada, told me she had been touring around Southeast Asia for the past three weeks and gushed about how clean Singapore was. Hmmm ...

At one point of time, some guy got so into the act that he started stripping down to his briefs. The farang couple was really kind to treat us whiskies and before we left, we exchanged contacts and she was nice to tell me to look them up when we go to NZ.

I was so reluctant to leave (the good songs were still rolling out!) but we still had not attempted any packing (especially that watermelon). So we left at 1+am.

Back at the hotel

Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Krabi Day 3

Woke up with anticipation because we were looking forward to a buffet breakfast, but we were upset to know that due to insufficient guests (low season AGAIN!), we would be served breakfast sets instead. Darn.

Wholesome breakfast of omelette, meats, toast, fruits and coffee

At the pool

As it was still early, we rode to Noppharat Thara beach for a morning walk on the exposed mudflats (as it was low tide again). We were trying to catch some fiddler crabs at the knolls but Slug cut his sole against the protuding rocks there and started bleeding. We hurried back to our hotel and as I requested for some alcohol and cotton from the lobby, the bellboy joked to Slug good-naturedly, "Why, you not happy with the stone?", and to which we laughed.

The two knolls on an early morning

After cleaning his wound, the bleeding stopped and we proceeded to the lobby to wait for the minivan that would come at 8.30am to pick us up for our excursion. It turned out to be a pickup instead, which took us to a pier near Noppharat Thara beach. Together with two farang families and some Thai nationals, we were ushered up a long-tail boat which would take us to the first island, Tup Island.

On the pick-up

On the long-tail boat

Approaching 4 Islands

Approaching Tup Island

After 30 minutes, we arrived at Tup Island and we were given 40 minutes to laze around on its beach. As the tide was low, a sandbar that connected two islets there was somehow exposed, making it possible to walk to and from these islets. As I was walking along the sandbar and wading through the water, I had fun gazing at the shoals of huge alligator fishes and other fishes swimming around. Poor Slug did not want to enter the water because of the cut on his sole, so he sat all by himself on a boulder.

The beach on Tup Island

People wading across to the other islet

As I was exploring the fishes, I caught sight of a Singaporean father who disgusted me with his fake Caucasian accent. He was guiding his son, who seemed to be about 4-years-old, in snorkelling. While helping his son stay afloat and paddle, he was rattling away, "Joshua, paddle your feet ... This is how you swim ... You breathe through this tube ... This is called snorkelling ... Oh, do you see that, Joshua ... that is a big yellow fish ... Do you know where the fishes live? ... At these rocks ... Oh, Joshua, don't drink the waaahhdder ... the waaahdder is sorrteeee ... sorrrteee, sorrrteee ...." Give that guy a break, he is only 4-years-old! And the way he spoke (with that fake accent) seriously induced goosebumps all over my scalp.

After that, we left Tup Island for Khai (Thai for 'chicken') Island. Why Chicken Island? Because it is shaped like a chicken. Slug felt that it should be named Turkey Island instead.

Leaving Tup Island

Khai Island

Our boat anchored itself a few metres away from the island, allowing us to plunge into the waters and snorkel. Some went ahead and some stayed on board to feed the fishes. The waters were so clear that I could see sea urchins at the bottom of the sea.

Stopping at this cove

Feeding the fishes

Our guide dived into the water and started to catch the fishes with his bare hands. How he did it: he spit into the water, and the fishes, mistaking his white spit to be bread, swam towards to nibble it and his fingers, and he would instinctively clamp his fingers over the unfortunate fish.

Slug was impressed with such a skill of his, but I was starting to get worried because the guide just threw his catch onto the boat and left them there under the sun. I tried to house those fishes in a bread plastic bag filled with water but it started leaking. In the end, I was so frustrated that I released them all back into the sea. Luckily the guide did not mention anything about the fishes when he came on board.

We were then brought to Poda Island for lunch. We could not believe our eyes when we were handed packed lunch, because we were expecting lunch at restaurants!

Just rice with pork and omelette

So we sat at a nearby restaurant to enjoy our miserable lunch, and then we walked around the beach. We watched in amusement as a group of monkeys appeared from nowhere and started ransacking the bags of two sunbathers, who shrieked at them. Slug and I ran forward to take a closer look at them.

That was a close look, wasn't it? Soon, a few of us started crowding around this pack of monkeys, and a Thai woman even fed them some mee siam. As Slug was staring at it, it suddenly lunged towards Slug and wanted to snatch the bottle of mineral water he was holding. Slug was so stunned that he stood rooted to the ground until a farang came over and scared them away.

The monkeys scampered away ...

A limestone outcrop off Poda Island

Then we were taken to the last 'island': Railey beach. Yah, it is actually a beach separated from Ao Nang beach by a hill, so it cannot really be considered an island, but god-knows-why it is part of this itinerary.

On the way to Railey beach

This small secluded stretch of beach (which can only be reached by long-tail boats and not by land transport) was quite crowded with many sunbathers, and we were not impressed with the cleanliness of this beach. We were then taken to the Phra Nang Cave (the Cave of the Holy Princess) to pay a visit to the shrine.

On Railey beach

Phra Nang Cave

The shrine which houses the spirit of the Holy Princess

We explored the beach by walking towards the back, on a path that would take us to the Viewpoint. We passed by the stalactites and stalagmites at the base of the huge limestone hill, and finally came to the path up the hill that would lead to the Viewpoint.

Hanging stalactites formed by water eroding the limestone

Erm, yes, that is the path up to the Viewpoint. Slug and I stared at it in disbelief. There was a ragged rope that you can hold on to while scaling the steep slope, but the steepness was too forbidding. A farang couple came down the slope (with ease) and they told us that we should try to get to the top, because there were two paths that we could take. One would lead to the Viewpoint that offers a scenic view of Railey beach, while the other path would lead to a cavern with a beautiful lagoon. I was tempted and started to climb up the slope, but Slug the weakling complained about his foot and sat there watching me. Within ten steps, fear started to grip me, dirt started to go under my fingernails and I started to whine. My ascent promptly stopped there.

So we walked back to the beach to board our boat back to Ao Nang. As the boat bounced up and down the waves, everyone on board was splashed and drenched by the waves. It was cooling and irritating at the same time.

Shielding ourselves from the waves

We were brought back to our hotel, where we washed up and took a short comfortable nap.

On the balcony

When evening came, we woke up and rode to Noppharat Thara beach. It was low tide again and we made more discoveries. The best discovery I made: my flip-flops were stolen. I was extremely upset because those were my favourite Nokia rubber flip-flops that I bought from the Student Advisory Centre!

Another crab scurrying away

Slug collected a handful of clams

A baby horseshoe crab

After that, we rode to an open-air compound of tze char restaurants near our hotel for dinner. We saw a table of three disgusting Singaporeans giving us the head-to-toe stares and we were instantly pissed.

The tze char restaurant that we patronized

We felt that it should be a credible dining venue as we saw scores of farangs there. We ordered tempura prawns and squid, fried chicken and tofu and minced pork soup, and topped off the dinner with refreshing coconut juice.

Dinner

As we were eating away, suddenly someone tapped me on my shoulder and grinned, "Hey, remember me?". I could only stare at her, nonplussed, not knowing what to say. "I am the guide this morning, to 4 Islands," she continued, and Slug and I breathed a relieved "Ooooh". We were awestruck by the transformation our guide underwent: during the day she was hidden behind a pair of shades and her hair tucked into a cap; now she let her hair down and looked more feminine. No wonder we could not recognise her. We took a picture together, and Slug and I secretly agreed between ourselves that she looks like Michael Jackson (and that's not a compliment).

The guide, Eve, and I

After dinner, we walked around the shops that fronted Ao Nang beach and browsed through the pirated DVDs (they even had Hostel 2!) and beach apparel. Slug and I bought slippers quite cheaply.

At the shops at Ao Nang beach

Harassing a stray cat

After walking around and snacking on tidbits and hotdogs from 7-Eleven, we returned to our room. To our horror, we realised a Singaporean couple had moved into the room next to ours (we could hear their distinguishable voices and accents from next door), and their TV was on all the way past midnight. Assholes.