Was raining in the morning again! Like yesterday, the rain stopped at around 11am+, and only then could we venture out of our apartment. We headed straight to our dearly-missed 冬菇亭 in Wan
Chai for brunch. We kind of realised the iced honey watercress drink served in
Hong Kong's
cha can tings is fantastic.
Rice with sweet and sour fish
Baked spaghetti
Waiting for our meals to be served
After that, we took the rickety trams to the Central Pier to board the ferry to Lamma Island. We were fortunate to be able to reach just in time to board the one that was moored by the dockside, as the next one would come another fricking 45 minutes later.
Tram
Slug and I at the tram stop
The iconic star ferry
Slug and I on the ferry
It was a smooth 30-minute ride to Yung Shue Wan of Lamma Island. The weather did not look favourable though, with dark clouds gathering above the island. As we walked around the small town of Yung Shue Wan just beside the ferry terminal, we were fascinated by the dominance of nature and trees and the simplicity of life there - from the people to the infrastructure to the technology. Buildings higher than three storeys are actually prohibited here, but God knows why.
Reaching Lamma Island soon
Yung Shue Wan
Ferry terminal at Yung Shue Wan
Someone fishing at the pier
The main road in Yung Shue Wan town
This is ... ... a hotel?
Seafood restaurants and eateries at Yung Shue Wan
Tin Hau temple
Posters outside a pet shop asking for kind souls to adopt the strays
After looking through the seafood restaurants, ethnic handicraft stores, pubs, cafes (selling Western food, Turkish food and cheesecakes!) and traditional grocery shops, we realised 1) there is actually a thriving Caucasian community on this island, contrary to our stereotypical images of a fisherman community. They are mainly the expatriates, loving Lamma Island for its cheap property rents and the relaxing rural life. 2) Too many stray dogs around! Many-a-time I had frozen in terror when I saw a stray mutt dashing towards me, thinking that it was going to pounce on me, but it just passed me. The scariest moment was when two indocile mutts got into a fierce tussle right in front of us just because of a staring incident! Our toes could have been mauled! 3) No roads, so no vehicles around! Residents move around by foot or bicycle. The only fuel-driven 'vehicle' was this open-back vehicle to transport construction materials like gravel. We were simply irritated because there would be one or two rumbling past us every minute in both directions, and because the path was so narrow, we would have to move to one side and risk falling into the tall damp grasses.
Just a driver's seat attached to a steering wheel with no roof or seat belts!
Slug and I were lusting over the three-storey houses that come with a garden and balconies. There were some houses that looked drab and rundown on the outside, but with good interior designing, the inside looked just as modern and fine as Singapore homes. Some home-owners even converted the ground floor of their houses into a shop or cafe, which is a good idea, but Lamma Island just does not seem like a lucrative market to me.
From Yung Shue Wan, we began our hike to Sok Kwun Wan, another town on the other side of Lamma Island. It was estimated to take about 90 minutes for a leisurely stroll. As we walked further and further away from Yung Shue Wan, we soon found ourselves stepping into forested wilderness a la Pulau Ubin.
Sports facilities on Lamma Island
Some friendly-looking stray dog
A path leading into the trees and tall grasses
Some residents choose to live in the tall grasses with the banana trees
Following the road signs to Sok Kwu Wan
A poster at a lamp post ...
Who was this fricking dog poisoner? Why would he do such a terrible thing! If you notice, the English version seemed to have left out the gist of the story, so it was actually more accurate in a sense to read the Chinese version.
After a while, we emerged out of the forested darkness onto a path that skirted the coastline. We were offered panoramic views of the sea, but we could actually catch a glimpse of nearby Lantau Island and Cheung Chau if the sky had been clearer.
Finally seen daylight!
Looking down at the swashing waters below
Sok Kwu Wan (about 60 mins away) ...
Scenic views of the valleys and the sea
As we walked on, I got increasingly worried, because we were hiking on the hill slopes and we were very exposed to the dark clouds above. There were bouts of thunder some distance away, and I was fearing the possibility of being struck by lightning. After 15 minutes, we reached Hung Shing Yeh Beach.
Hung Shing Yeh Beach
There were a few people there despite the gloomy weather - one or two families, a couple hugging while standing on the boulders, and a group of girls frolicking in the water. While trying to climb up the boulders, I slipped and grazed my hand against the sharp edges. A nice local woman saw that and handed me some plasters, and I was deeply touched.
The two hugging lovers on the boulders
So many restrictions!
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Slug wanted me to photograph this stick insect in the handicapped toilet at the beach
We resumed our trek towards Sok Kwu Wan, and I realised the increasingly elevated paths were taking us higher above ground and closer towards the storm clouds. I was so uncomfortable with our dangerous positions that I started to whine. Slug refused to turn back to Yung Shue Wan because we were almost halfway towards Sok Kwu Wan, but I was really gripped by fear and anxiety. I kept hallucinating flashes of lightning ahead of us and I did not want to be electrocuted. Seeking shelter under a tree was not a smart move, but it was not as if there were many trees around us. What was worse, there was not any single visible soul around us either.
Resuming our trek
Continued to trek along the coastline
Mountain peak shrouded by low-hanging dark clouds
The power station is such an eye-sore in this natural landscape!
Suddenly, we espied a Caucasian teenage girl walking behind us. Seemed like she was embarking on the trail like us too. However, she looked totally calm and indifferent to the threat of the dark storm clouds, unlike me, who was whining away, dragging my feet and close to tears. We did not feel alone anymore, and suddenly I was inspired to carry on the trek. I called for Slug to catch up and follow behind her together, just for that small added sense of security.
We came to the first hill, and suddenly, we heard some loud barks directed at us. We looked towards the peak, and to my horror, a pack of wild dogs were glaring intently at us. I nearly cowered because I thought they were wolves, while Slug went cooing "So cute, wild dogs!" and the angmoh girl was taking pictures of them on her camera phone. The pack consisted of at least 10 fierce-looking mutts, which look poised and ready to dash towards us any moment.
One of the wild dogs
Just then, a man appeared from nowhere and started climbing the slopes towards those dogs, calling out to them affectionately along the way. Those dogs ran towards him, yelping in excitement, and it seemed like that man was bringing them their teatime snacks. Slug wanted to continue watching the drama but I hurriedly pulled him away. The weather did not look right and we needed to get going. Gotta catch up with angmoh girl!
Me whimpering at the first hill
Moving on to the second hill (the one with many rock outcrops)
The lofty rocky peak of the second hill
Pavillion at the second hill where angmoh girl took a rest (now we were ahead of her!)
Moving on to the third hill
Dangeroulsy steep slopes
As we walked on, we found that there were actually a few people attempting the trail, mainly Caucasians. We were reaching the highest point of the trail, which had been skirting around the chain of hills and taking us along the western coast of the island. Now, the path was cutting through between two hills, and we were walking into the forested darkness again. Angmoh girl still had not caught up with us yet. Wasn't she worried? The thunder was getting louder and it seemed that it was going to rain any moment. Not to waste any more time, we decided to run down the declining path.
We were soon out of the forest and found ourselves gazing at the eastern side of the island. At least we could see Sok Kwu Wan now. However, at a distance, we espied a blurry mist at the sea, unmistakably rain, and it seemed to be heading towards us. We now quickened our pace towards Sok Kwu Wan.
Blurry column of rain out at sea
Sok Kwu Wan and its many fish farms
We passed by Lo So Shing Beach and came to a small settlement of a few houses, and just at that moment, it started to rain heavily. We hurriedly sought shelter at the backyard of one of the houses, which, luckily, had a table and a few chairs seemingly waiting for us. We spent the next 30 minutes stoning at the shelter while waiting for the rain to stop.
A little hut cutely named Lo So Shop
Seeking shelter at this very messy and cluttered backyard
Chilling out at the shelter
Three of the many mosquitoes which bit us
An unabashed frog poking its head of out the drain cover and staring at us
After 30 minutes, the heavy rain abated to become a light drizzle, but we were still contemplating whether to continue walking in the rain. Just as we were wondering about angmoh girl, suddenly she appeared with two chaps and walked along the trail in the rain suavely. Although we were awed and inspired by her, we just did not want to look like drenched cats by the time we reached Sok Kwu Wan, so we waited a while more for the rain to stop completely before resuming the trek.
Nothing was more pleasing now than seeing the sun shining through the dark clouds!
Passing by many vegetable farms along the way
The descending path took us back to ground again, and as we were walking through a forest, we heard a familiar bellowing coming out from the drains. It was same bellowing made by those invisible frogs after a heavy rain! And this time, we finally got to see those little singers - the Asiatic painted frogs! We peered into the drain and we spotted one fat one swimming in the murky drain water (eewww), similar to the one we saw earlier on at the shelter. We failed to spot the other frogs and so we left, and the melodic bellowing continues to resonate in the forest.
Fat frog in the drain
Finally going to reach Sok Kwu Wan!
We passed by two mysterious caves, named the Kamikaze Grottos according to a sign. There are different versions regarding the origins of the caves - some say the caves were dug by the Japanese themselves who later took their own lives in them during the Japanese invasion of Hong Kong from 1941 to 1945, some say the Japanese soldiers dug the caves to store ammunition and secret boats, while some say the Japanese soliders ordered the locals to dig the caves and killed them in the caves to ensure secrecy. Nevertheless, the caves contained great historic value, despite its dark, damp and eerie exterior.
A 'no entry' sign prohibits the trespassing into the cave
After nearly 2 hours, we finally reached Sok Kwu Wan, which looked suspiciously similar to Yung Shue Wan but the former had more seafood restaurants. It was only 6pm, and we were dismayed to see that the next ferry to take us back to Central was departing at 7.20pm. Slug suggested to have dinner at one of the seafood restaurants there, but as it was a Friday (plus it had been raining), the restaurants there looked quite empty and quiet. We picked the most posh and comfortable-looking one - Rainbow. Seemed like Rainbow was the leader here, with two branches along the stretch of seafood restaurants.
Seafood restaurants at Sok Kwu Wan
Rainbow seafood restaurant
We ordered steamed prawns with minced garlic and spring onions, bamboo clams stir-fried in black bean sauce, and seafood fried rice. Tea and fruits were complimentary. Bill added up to be about HKD314. NOT CHEAP.
What surprised us was that this restaurant offered free shuttle service to (for would-be patrons)and from (for patrons) Central, so well, at least we need not pay for our journey back to Hong Kong Island. The shuttle ferry came at about 8pm, just nicely after we had picked our teeth and gone to the loo, and we were actually the only passengers. Business was not so quiet afterall, because the shuttle ferries coming from Central were letting out throngs of (angmoh) customers who were herded straight to the other Rainbow branch.
The loud neon lights of Rainbow seafood restaurant are the ultimate attention-grabber in the darkness
Shuttle ferry
Along the way back to Central, we enjoyed the beautiful night scenery of Hong Kong island.
Sheung Wan
Central
Causeway Bay
Back at the pier
After getting off the ferry, we walked around in ifc mall (was tempted to start sweeping snacks off the shelves in the huge supermarket there, especially jars of strawberry malt candy), and then took the train back to Causeway Bay for some late-night shopping at the shopping malls and particularly HMV at Fashion Walk. There, we dug out some really old and obsolete movies, and combined with the DVDs we bought at some tawdry movie shop at Temple Street yesterday, we had managed to locate some great HK movies we had been dying to get our hands on!
Admiralty MTR interchange platform
HMV at Fashion Walk (opens till as late as 11.45pm! Wooo!)
Legitimate adult section (double Woooo!)
Slug was lusting after the blood, sex and gore (and char siew buns) in Anthony Wong's films
So happy we were with our buys that we decided to call it a day. Spent the night watching TV which was bombarding us with short clips of the rescue efforts and survival stories of the Sichuan earthquake. What was more disturbing was that they adapted Beyond's 海阔天空 to become the theme song for this catastrophe! So what if Andy Lau wrote the lyrics? So what if big celebrities like Lau, Sammi Cheng, Jackie Chan and Jacky Cheung etc were singing this song in unison and with such genuine passion? So what if it was for a good cause? The feel just was not right, protested Slug the indignant Beyond fan. Too bad, we could only cringe and break out into goosebumps everytime we heard this new adapted version (especially when seeing the exaggerated or constipated expressions of some of the singers).
Celebrity galore, though.
