Up steep inclines ...
Zigzagging our way through the mountains
Hills shrouded by clouds
Small classic Thai houses
We passed by rolling hills and large rubber and oil palm plantations, and we saw old and simple-looking schools, roadside stalls, large Chinese tombstones, wild cows grazing by the roadside and even a strolling elephant. In general, a slice of Thai rural life. When we started seeing tall and massive karst (limestone) towers, we knew we were nearing Krabi.
Rust-hued limestone cliffs topped with lush tropical greenery
Karst landscape characteristic of Krabi
At about 10am, the driver let us down for a 20-minute toilet break at a small roadside coffeehouse. Greedy Slug wolfed down a bowl of noodles while I only had appetite for Coke. The journey was making us weary and we were still 60+km away from Krabi town.
We resumed our journey after the break, and we finally reached Krabi town about half an hour later. The minivan stopped to let us off at a tour agency, where we were separated from the other passengers in our van as they boarded another minivan bound for Penang and Satun. So poor Slug and I lazed around at that agency waiting for our minivan bound for Ao Nang beach to come. We noticed that the agency arranges coaches and vans not only from Krabi to other parts of Thailand, but also to Malaysia and Singapore. One-way to Singapore costs only SGD$50 (cheap!), but it is a butt-heating 24-hour journey. Definitely not for one with piles.
We finally got on the van to Ao Nang, and it dropped us off at the Buri Tara Resort. We were kind of disappointed to see that it was a pretty small hotel and was not anywhere near the beach, but when we stepped in, we were whammed by the posh and beautifully-furnished lobby, as well as the warm hospitality of the receptionists, who served us welcome drinks.
Buri Tara Resort
The bellboy brought us to our room on the top floor, and it was a pleasant surprise because our room had been made cool for us (we were sweating like mad) and it had a marble floor (unlike the typical carpeted or tiled floors in other hotels). And I must say, our room looked decent and comfortable with its wooden furnishings and neutral earth tones.
View of the hotel compound
View of the sea (erm, sort of)
We washed up and decided to rent their in-house scooters as this hotel was at quite a distance away from the beach and the centre of activity. We still shuddered at the recollection of our biking mishap in Kanchanaburi, but from what I could see, a bike or car seemed quite essential to get around.
We rode to Ao Nang beach for a simple lunch at Jinda's Guesthouse. It was mid-afternoon and the sun was blazing hot, unlike the gloomy weather over at Phuket. Slug was shaky with the bike initially, but he soon got the hang of it (auto and no clutch!). Luckily, traffic was not heavy. Best thing is, you can just park anywhere along the side of the road and parking is free! You are not required to wear a helmet too!
Ao Nang beach
Me and Slug at Ao Nang beach
Slug in front of a KamaSutra-ese painting
Check out the farang reading newspapers diligently
Fried squid with garlic and pepper with rice
After lunch, we stopped by a small minimart (there isn't any shopping mall in Ao Nang!) to get some necessities, and then to McDee's for some familiar food.
A road at Ao Nang beach
Trying out McDee's jelly sundae
The ever-courteous Ronald in Thailand
We walked around the beachfront shops as well as Ao Nang beach. Ao Nang seemed a quieter and less touristy place as compared to Phuket. Or maybe it was due to the low season. There were still farangs around sunbathing on the beach and walking around aimlessly (and yucks, do I see Singaporeans too?). On one hand, you may say that Krabi is truly a serene and hidden location for a serious escapade from city life, the commercial world and even pesky beach chair vendors (there aren't any beach chairs provided at Ao Nang, you have to bring your own mat), but on the other hand, you can say that it is quiet to the extent of boring. No shimmying trannies, no late-night partying or shopping, no hardcore nighttime entertainment found in Phuket. Slug and I could not decide whether to like this place for being peaceful or to hate it for being drab.
At Ao Nang beach
As evening came, we rode from Ao Nang beach to Noppharat Thara beach, which was just 5 minutes away. These two beaches are separated by a forested hill, but the latter was nearer to our hotel. The beach was experiencing low tide, exposing large shallow areas of mudflats.
Noppharat Thara beach
We took a leisurely stroll along the mudflats, keeping an eye on the miniscule sea creatures that prowl the puddles of seawater collected on the mudflats. We saw beautiful flawless seashells, sea snails, clams, tiny mudskippers and gazillions of hermit crabs no bigger than the size of a fingernail. But our favourite: crabs. On sensing our looming presence, the crabs (of species we have never ever seen before), which were feeding off the nutrient-rich mud, would scuttle away or bury themselves into the soft sand. But I would happily dig them out from their hiding places. They are so easy to catch.
Camouflage is no use to a keen human eye
The mudflats pockmarked by the crabs' constant burrowing
The tide was so low that it revealed a sandy path to two little knolls further away, and we walked towards them. During high tide, it was impossible to reach them by foot. There, we discovered more crab species and an apprehensive heron.
The two knolls
Reaching one of the knolls
As dusk fell, we witnessed one glorious sunset (without the sun, because it set behind the trees). For a moment, the mudflats glowed with a golden brilliance and we were speechless at the beautiful sight.
The beach got darker and more desolate with every minute, and we left reluctantly. We returned to our room to wash up, and later booked two excursions at the lobby. The prices offered by our hotel were even lower than those offered by the roadside tour agencies (and they were not even open to negotiation!), because according to the kind receptionist, the hotel had fought for lower prices solely for its guests. Sweet!
In the blissful comfort of our room
We rode out to Ao Nang beach for dinner, and on the way, we stopped by a gasoline shop to top up on petrol. A full tank costs only SGD$2.20!
We had dinner at a roadside stall which sold wonton mee. I cannot say the standard of the wonton mee is comparable to that of Singapore, but well, it was cheap.
After dinner, we cruised along the relatively empty road that lines Noppharat Thara beach, taking in the breeze and the obsidian sea. We then retreated to our room for an early night.
We are going on the 4 Islands tour tomorrow!
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